Wines of Texas · Field GuideGrape № 005

Alicante Bouschet

ah-lee-KAHN-tay boo-SHAY · Vitis vinifera ‘Alicante Bouschet’

Bred on purpose in 1866 by Henri Bouschet, who crossed Grenache with Petit Bouschet chasing one thing: color. Spain calls it Garnacha Tintorera; Portugal’s Alentejo treats it like royalty.

Plate 01 · A vine planted in the 1890s, still bearing · photo: Steve Amaon, CC BY-SA 4.0
Plate 01 · A vine planted in the 1890s, still bearing · photo: Steve Amaon, CC BY-SA 4.0
Plate 02 · On the bar · Driftwood's Reserve, Texas High Plains
Plate 02 · On the bar · Driftwood's Reserve, Texas High Plains
Color
Opaque — stains the glass
Body
Full
Tannin
Medium, smooth
If you like
Dark, inky reds

/ The party trick /

Cut open most red wine grapes and the inside is pale — the color lives in the skin, and the juice runs clear. Alicante Bouschet is one of only a dozen or so varieties with red skin and red flesh, what the French call a teinturier — a dyer. It carries color all the way through, which is why a splash of it can tint an entire blend. We learned that at Michael Ros, where 1.5% of it was enough to turn a Grenache deep and rich.

/ What it tastes like /

Blackberry, plum, a little earth and smoke, with smoother tannin than the near-black pour would have you brace for. For most of its history it hid in blends doing color work — including, during Prohibition, riding railcars to home winemakers who prized its thick skin — but bottled alone it’s a dark, generous red that doesn’t need the disguise.

/ Why it works in Texas /

It handles heat the way its Grenache parent taught it to, and High Plains fruit keeps the color and fruit intact. Texas growers mostly use it the old way — a blending splash — but standalone bottlings are starting to show up, and the ones we’ve met were worth the detour.

/ What to eat with it /

Anything off a smoker or a grill — dark meat, sausage, short ribs. Just mind your shirt; this is the one wine on this list that genuinely stains.

/ From our visits /

Driftwood Estate a Reserve Alicante Bouschet from the Texas High Plains, standing on its own instead of playing a supporting role — one of the best things we tasted all afternoon.030Michael Ros where we first met it — 1.5% of their Grenache, and enough to change the whole color of the wine. They explained the red-flesh trick at the bar.026