Wines of Texas · Field GuideGrape № 004

Viognier

vee-ohn-YAY · Vitis vinifera ‘Viognier’

The first white in this guide. Born on steep banks of the northern Rhône, where Condrieu is made from nothing else — and where it nearly went extinct in the 1960s before the world rediscovered it.

Plate 01 · Cluster on the vine
Plate 01 · Cluster on the vine
Plate 02 · In the glass · photo to come
Color
Pale gold
Body
Full, for a white
Acidity
Gentle — drink young
If you like
Peaches over oak

/ What it tastes like /

Apricot, peach, and honeysuckle, with a texture that runs rich and almost oily — this is a white that fills the whole glass. The trick that fools everyone: it smells sweet and usually drinks dry. No oak butter, no pucker — perfume up front, clean finish behind it.

/ Why it works in Texas /

Viognier keeps its perfume in the heat, which most aromatic whites can’t claim, and it’s been proving itself here longer than nearly anything — Dr. Richard Becker planted it outside Stonewall in 1992, when conventional wisdom said Texas couldn’t do fine wine. The catch is the picking window: its acid fades fast in late heat, so growers harvest in a hurry to keep the freshness.

/ What to eat with it /

Gulf shrimp, roast chicken, anything with a peach in it — fitting, since Fredericksburg was peach country before it was wine country. The richness also stands up to spice better than most whites; Thai takeout is squarely in bounds.

/ From our visits /

Becker Vineyards where Texas Viognier started — planted in 1992 by a Stonewall dermatologist when nobody thought it would work. Still the benchmark, and the reason we said we’d be back.012Pedernales Cellars the Viognier Reserve is the house white anchor — High Plains fruit — with a late-harvest version running honeysuckle, apricot, citrus rind.025